THE CARE OF THE AUSTRALIAN BEARDED DRAGON, Pogona vitticeps

Peter Weis, Herpetologist WEIS REPTILES
Route 4, Box 468, Tallahassee, FL 32304-8615  904/574-1037

The Inland Bearded Dragon, Pogona vitticeps, is becoming increasingly popular as a pet lizard in the U.S. Bearded dragons are among the tamest of all lizards, and their outgoing personalities, activity level, voracious appetites and interesting social behaviors make them a very captivating lizard to observe. They have a very rapid growth rate, so the 4" hatchlings can grow to their adult size within a year. Most bearded dragons adapt easily to handling and are calm enough to perch on their owner's shoulder, or be placed on a countertop, or enjoy the view from a windowsill.

The inland bearded dragon has a huge range in the interior of Australia, ranging from the subtropical woodlands, to the savannahs, and into the great interior deserts. They spend most of their time perched on logs, rocks or tree trunks, alert for the approach of any food item. Bearded dragons are omnivorous, and feed on a variety of insects, any small animal they can overpower, and flowers, greenery and fruits. They live in an environment that can be very harsh, so bearded dragons are adapted to eat almost any food that is available during lean seasons. They also can store nutrients in huge abdominal fat bodies, and dig into the ground and aestivate for long periods during unfavorable times. Even in captivity, certain environmental conditions may trigger the bearded dragons to hide in a sheltered spot in the cage, and go dormant for a few weeks, only to appear one day and start eating and behaving as though such activities are just part of being a bearded dragon! This adaptability makes bearded dragons suitable for a variety of captive conditions and food sources.

Female bearded dragons lay clutches of 15-25 eggs. The hatchlings are 3 1/2-4 1/4" long. The hatchlings grow rapidly, and are usually 5" long by the end of their first month. Most hatchling mortality occurs during this first month. By the end of the second month most hatchlings are 6", with most of this being an increase in body size, so they are much more robust and hardier. The juveniles will continue to grow rapidly, and can reach their adult size within a year. There is both coloration and size variation among the different races of Pogona vitticeps, so adults can range in size from 16-24"; a normal adult size is 18-22". Coloration varies from a uniform tan to chocolate brown, with a variety of chevron patterns down the back, and different hues to the head, throat, back and tail. As bearded dragons approach adult size, their sexual differences become more obvious, with the males developing much broader heads and a larger black beard. Males also have a rapid head bobbing display, while females, in response to the male, will return a series of slower head bobs. Both sexes engage in stereotyped arm waving behavior to appease more dominant animals and this would also be characteristic of female behavior towards a dominant male.

Care of hatchlings:

Young hatchlings can be housed in a 10 gallon aquarium, with a 30-60 watt spotlight at one end above a basking rock. The wattage of the spotlight needs to be adjusted to allow the dragons to reach a body temperature of 100 degrees after basking under the light for an hour, as they need to get very warm to digest their food. Arrange the rocks and branches to provide several basking levels. Watch the hatchlings so you can arrange basking areas that they like to use. Arrange branches and add shelters so the hatchlings can choose from a range of temperatures and heights to maintain their optimum body temperature. . A full spectrum, ultraviolet A emitting fluorescent lamp, such as:

Spectralite by Service Colortone 50 by Phillips Design 50 by Sylvania Vitalite by Duro-Test

should be suspended over the cage, and perches arranged so lizards can bask within 6 inches of the bulb, so they can absorb the UV-A to manufacture their vitamin D3 for bone formation. The substrate can be washed sand or newspaper, etc. A very shallow water pan should be placed in the cage where the lizards will run through it. They should be sprayed with water every day, both on the cage and on their heads. They often lap water as it is sprayed on them. Keep a fine mist of spray directed on their heads as long as they keep lapping up the water. The hatchlings require a dry cage, but need to drink a lot of water. Some learn to drink from their water dish, but if they get thin and dehydrated it will be necessary to adjust their conditions by getting them to ingest more water via increased sprayings, providing fresh moist vegetables, or warming or cooling the cage.

The hatchlings should be fed small crickets, mealworms, waxworms and other insects every day if they are to make optimum growth. Choose feeder insects that are about 1/3 the size of their heads so the hatchlings can easily eat them. Thin leaves of red tip lettuce and other greens can be finely shredded and fed to the hatchlings, or pieces of leaf can be propped up so the lizards can take bites out of them. Potted plants such as purslane, pothos, hibiscus, and garden greens can also be placed in the cage, and the hatchlings will benefit from the water content of the fresh leaves. It is important to encourage the hatchlings to eat vegetation, as this is an important part of their diet, and contains a lot of water for them. Healthy bearded dragons of all ages have well filled out bellies.

A calcium supplement containing vitamin D3, such as Rep-Cal (R), should be lightly sprinkled on food items every other day or so to promote healthy bone growth. If the lips start to separate, or the hind legs go into spasm, or are held out stiffly, you need to supply more calcium and D3. Caution should be exercised when using multi-vitamin supplements, as bearded dragons are very susceptible to vitamin A toxicity, characterized by a swelling of the throat, and proceeding to a bloating of the body and lethargy. I recommend giving them a small dose of multi-vitamins just twice a month. This is enough to ensure they are getting all the vitamins they need, as bearded dragons will get most vitamins they need when fed a varied diet. If the baby dragons get sick, and exhibit erratic behavior, and can't eat and drink on their own you need to assist-feed them. Prepare a solution of chicken baby food mixed with water and Rep-Cal, and a tiny bit of multi-vitamin, all mixed to a gruel-like consistency, and deliver it to the tip of the snout with an eyedropper. The baby dragon will shortly drink in this drop hanging on its lips, and once the drinking reflex begins, you can apply the eyedropper to the snout, and allow the dragon to drink its full. Stop to allow the dragon to breathe, then see if it will take more. You may have to continue this for several days. Don't wait for the dragon to get weak and dehydrated. Treat it immediately and its chance for recovery is better. Keep it separated from cage mates till it again eats well on its own.

Care of juveniles:

As the hatchlings grow, the larger ones should be moved to a different cage, or they will dominate and stress out their smaller siblings. As their size increases, they can take larger food items, and more vegetable matter in the diet. Greens are very good for them, as are Chinese cabbages, and a standard, cooked, chopped vegetable mix of green beans, carrots, corn, peas, and brocoli. They love to devour edible potted plants placed in the cage. Purslane and hibiscus are very good, as they have a juicy leaf, and the plants can tolerate the high temperatures in a bearded dragon cage. Also the sprouts of beans and sunflowers are very good for them (often their favorite food) and with a little planning you can provide a continuous supply of these. Under optimum conditions, bearded dragons grow fast, and can reach adult size in 12 months.

Social interactions:

As the dragons grow, they will establish a hierarchy. Aggressive and appeasement displays are a part of their normal social interaction. Dominant males tend to take the highest perch, so provide separate basking sites for sub-dominant animals. Females will establish a hierarchy of their own. It is normal bearded dragon behavior for males to chase females about the cage and to challenge each other, sometimes biting. Be alert for individuals that become intimidated, and do not feed or bask as often as the others. Re-arrange the cage furnishings, or move intimidated animals to a different cage to permit them access to food, water and basking sites.

Additional reading:

The General Care and Maintenance of Bearded Dragons, 1993, by Philippe de Vosjoli and Robert Mailloux, 64p.